Pattern for coat-collars.



H. R. WESTERN.

PATTERN FOR GOAT COLLARS.

APPLICATION FILED 133.17, 1911.

1,039,233. Patented 15611124.1912.

#www l @SSW Bf @www UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PATTERN FOR COAT-COLLARS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 24,1912.

Application led February 17, 1911. Serial No. 609,142.

To all whom t may concern:

i Be it known that I, HARRY Rouu'r VVns'r- ERN, tailor, of 71 Cliveroad, Fratton, Portsy mouth, England, have invented new and usefulImprovements in Patterns for Coat- Collars; and I do hereby declare thatthe following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same,reference being had to the. accompanying drawings, forming a parthereof.

This.v invention has reference to patterns for cutting the collars ofcoats and similar garments,and in order that my invention may be readilyunderstood and carried into effect I will now proceed to describe thesame fully with reference to the accompanying drawings in which Figure lis a front plan view of my improved pattern. Fig... 2 is a rear planview of the same.` Fig. 3 illustrates a fiat collar pattern for cuttingthe cloth as hereinafter described.

My improved pat-tern comprises a body portion a of linen, canvas orother appropriate material cut to the shape of that part of a coat orjacket collary known as the fall, that is, the original shape of thecollar before it is shrunk or shaped to the requirements ofv the ligure.Extending from the bottom edge b ofthe body portion to within a shortdistance of' the top edge c I form a number of slits or cuts d. The backof the body portion a is provided with a number of loops e through whicha tape, Wire or the like f is threaded and fastened centrally to theportion a as at t. The body portion a is provided with slots g behindwhich the tape or wire f passes and secured to said tape are indicatorsL passing through said slots g over a guide strip s, rigid with theportion a. At the back of the body portion a is secured, at or near itstop edge, a piece z' of canvas or other appropriate material havingslits or cuts y' therein similar to those in the body portion a but soarranged as to come between the slits or cuts d formed therein so thatwhen the pattern is opened out in fitting, as hereinafter described, thebottom edge will form a continuous line; or I may dispense with thepiece z' if de- Sired and form the pattern of a single body portion a ofsuitable material. The top edge o the slots g and the center aregraduated with inches and parts of an inch or other appropriate standardof measurement, and a few inches along the base may if required, y begraduated.

It will be noted from the drawing that because of the securing means ofthe tape f to the body portion a, as at t, the portions `of thebodyportion at both sides of the point of securing are movable with respectyto the tape, and because of this movement the pat-tern may be shapedabout the neck `1 of the person to be fitted.

y In using my improved device the coator l'other garment is fitted inthe usual way but k'without a collar. The pattern is then placed `inposition on the figure and the ends of the pattern passed under or overthe lapel of the coat thus registering the correct length from `thecenter of the back to where the lapel passes over the pattern at the topedge. At the same time the aforesaid slits (l and j 1l will permit thepattern to ybe curved and the l tape j will position the indicators h toreguilate the amount of shape required for the 'collar for anyparticular type of figure.

Fig. 3 illustrates a collar pattern` for marking the cloth and for usein conjunction with the above. It comprises a body -portion a withgraduations c and g, and, as will subsequently appear, it is essentialthat thev graduations and their distances from the center of the patternshould be eX- actly the same both in regard to the distance down fromthe top edge c and the distance at which they start from the center, andin this pattern apertures are formed with the graduation c and g at themargins thereof for convenience in marking.

Now assuming that the lapel of the garment passed over the pattern Fig.l at 5 at the top edge and 6 at the upper graduated margin of slot g,the procedure would be to place the pattern shown in Fig. 3 on the clothwith the line 'le registering with what is to be the center of thecollar, and then to mark the points aforesaid upon the cloth and thesewill indicate the dimensions of the collar as shown by broken lines Fig.3. The cloth having been marked and cut, is Worked up with the iron inthe usual manner to the shape as registered by the indicator at lowergraduated margin of slot g of the pattern.

What I do claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patentis l. An adjustable pattern for the collars of coats and similargarments, comprising in gig:

combination, a body portion cut to the shape of the fall of the coatcollar and provided with transverse slits open to the bottom marginthereof, and longitudinally extending apertures adjacent to the ends ofthe body portion with graduated margins, a tape secured to said bodyportion centrally thereof and adjacent the open ends of the said slitstherein, with relative movement between the said tape and body portionat both sides yof the point of connection therebetween for fitting th'epattern in place, and indicators carried by said tape for coperationwith the graduations at the margins of said apertures in said bodyportion for determining the dimensions of the collar to be formedaccording thereto.

' 2. An adjustable pattern for the collars of coats and similargarments, comprising in combination, a body portion cutto the shape ofthe fall ofthe coat collar and provided with transverse slits open tothe bottom margin thereof, and longitudinally extending aperturesadjacent to the ends of the body portion with graduated margins, a tapesecured to said body portion centrally thereof and adjacent the openends of the said slits therein, with relative movement between the saidtape and body portion `at both sides of the point of connectiontherebetween for fitting the pattern in place, indicators carried bysaid tape for coperat-ion with the graduations at the margins of saidapertures 1n said body portion for determining the dimensions of thecollar to be formed according thereto, and a supplementary portion forsaid body portion, provided with slits open to the bottom marginthereofand disposed in staggered relation to the said slots in said bodyportion, whereby a uniform or uninterrupted bottom margin is providedfor when the pattern is in place.

3. In patterns for the collars of coats and similar garments, thecombination, an adjustable pattern including a body portion cut to theshape of the fall of the coat collar and provided with transverse slitsopen to the bottom margin thereof, and lonthe ends of the body portionwith graduated margins, a scale carried by said body portion andextending longitudinally along the top margin thereof, a tape secured tosaid body portion centrally thereof and adjacent to the open ends ofsaid slits therein with relative movement between said tape and saidbody portion at both sides of the point of connection therebetween forfitting the pattern in place, indicators carried by said tape forcooperation with the graduations at the margins of said apertures insaid body portion for determining the dimensions o-f a collar to beformed according thereto, and a rigid pattern for supplementing saidadjustable pattern and provided with a scale identical to the said scaleof said adjustable pattern, an aperture, provided with graduatedmargins, homologous to one of the said apertures in said body lportionwith respect to said scale, and an index for positioning the rigidpattern to the material from which the collar is to be formed andrelative to the transverse center f thereof.

at. In patterns for the collars of coats, and similar garments, thecombination, an adconnection therebetween for yiitting the patftern inplace, indicators carried by said tape for coperation withA thegraduations at the y.margins of said apertures in said body por- "tionfor determining the dimensions of the collar to be formed accordingthereto, a supllplementary portion kfor said body portion provided withslits open to the bottom mar#` l gin thereof and disposed in staggeredrela- Ition to the said slots in said body portion,

`whereby a uniform or uninterrupted bottom margin is provided for whenthe pattern is Sin place, and a rigid pattern'for supplementling saidadjustable pattern and provided with a scale ident-ical to the saidscale of fsaid adjustable pattern, an aperture, with graduated margins,homologous to 'one of the said apertures in said body portion withgitudinally extending apertures adjacent to TGSpCt t0 the Sad S0310, andan ndeX fOI' positioning the rigid pattern to the material from whichthe collar is to be formed and relative to the transverse centerthereof.

In testimony whereof I afhx my signature `in presence of two witnesses.

HARRY ROBERT WE STERN.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

' Washington, D. G.

